Deep in the Amish and Mennonite communities of Ohio and Indiana, the dessert menu at Das Dutchman Essenhaus, a hospitable chain of family-style restaurants, features a pecan pie of grand design. This is a towering cream pie with a thin layer of pebbly, gooey pecans hidden under cushions of plush custard and whipped cream. Every bite is a surprise.
Essenhaus’s Praline Pecan Pie stands out even on a Midwestern menu where more than 30 pies are on offer on any given day. How it ended up on the Essenhaus menu goes back 60 years to a Mennonite gathering in Holmes, Ohio, home to one of America’s largest Amish and Mennonite communities.
Mary Miller tasted the pie made by a friend, coincidentally also a Mary Miller. She was taken by its striking appearance and combination of flavors and asked for the recipe. “I like things pretty,” she said. “I liked the way it was combined.”
Mary tweaked the recipe, particularly, swapping instant vanilla pudding for a homemade version. It became a staple during family holidays.
It ended up on the Essenhaus menu about 20 years ago. Mary’s sister, Sue Miller, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Bob, was looking for a new pie offering and thought people would be wowed by the unique praline-topped crust. “I liked the way it’s a little crusty at the bottom,” Sue Miller said. “If you bake it too long, it gets rock-hard, and if you underbake it, then it gets sticky and chewy.”
The pecan layer is added about midway through baking. As the crust finishes, the candied pecan layer sets. Once the shell cools, on goes the brown sugar custard, followed by a layer of homemade whipped cream and hunks of candied pecans. Each slice is a stunning finale to a holiday meal.
