Saturday, May 23, 2026

Will Restaurants Face a World Cup Tourism Bubble?

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Welcome to Open Tab, a weekly roundup of news, gossip, and stories that have stayed open in my tabs all week. Last week we covered some controversial tipping trends.

I’ve truly become jaded and immune to bizarre brand collaborations over the past few years. A Grillo’s Pickles-flavored PBR? Snooze. Tabasco x Absolut Vodka? Whatever. Kylie Jenner partnering with Lockheed Martin? Well to be fair, that one I made up.

But I admit that I raised an eyebrow at the incoming Popeyes partnership with the Surf Lodge, the nightclub and restaurant in Montauk. I’ve never been to Surf Lodge (and likely never will, for what it’s worth), but my impression was that the West Village-types that attended weren’t looking for a tower of chicken tenders to compliment their club-going experience. Who knows? I’ve been wrong before. (Once or twice).

In other news, Manhattans have been dubbed “boy martinis,” though I will say I have never felt less masculine than when I’m bashfully fishing the cherry out of the bottom of my Manhattan.

Also this week: The tourism industry braced for staggering World Cup crowds—but they may not be coming. And, should you bring your kids to Hooters? The answer feels obvious, but some parents are doing it anyway. Also, stadium food is wilder than ever, and we’re taking a look back at a story that’s getting its well-deserved flowers.

There was a lot of hype in the tourism industry around this year’s FIFA World Cup which would take place in major cities across North America. Hotels jacked up their prices—some by more than 300%—and restaurants across the country prepared by partnering with spirits brands, planning drinks specials, and generally girding their loins for the mass of fans they expected. For these restaurants, World Cup crowds could be big revenue generators. In New Jersey, for example, the event is estimated to bring in more than $3 billion in direct economic impact.

But so far, those expectations don’t seem like they’ll be met. In major cities, hotel bookings haven’t seen a huge spike, according to The Athletic. That means less tourists, which could mean smaller crowds at local restaurants and bars that were counting on the crowds’ revenue. Experts are saying the tourism slump is likely due to the pricey deposits needed for tourist visas as well as extra expensive airfare.

I’m not a person who can claim the lived experience of having ever gone to a Hooters. In fact, the closest location to me is in East Brunswick, New Jersey, which is a farther commute than I’m willing to make for wings. But I feel that I can say with certainty that if I was eating at a Hooters next to, I don’t know, an entire Little League team or whatever, I would feel weird about that.

But according to a report from the New York Times, attracting kids (and their families) to dine at Hooters is part of the restaurant’s new strategy. After a complicated bankruptcy scenario, the original Hooter’s founders are back in charge. Their strategy this time around? Make Hooters a family-friendly, casual dining experience. There’s something weird about inviting young kids into a restaurant where the gimmick is that the service staff are mostly scantily-clad women, but I can’t quite put my finger on it. Write in with your ideas.

Some people attend baseball games for the love of sports. Others, like yours truly, go to baseball stadiums for the food. (Ahem, I’ve recently learned of something called hotdog fries.)



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